From Odessa to Chateau Purcari and Et Cetera and a half hour drive, approximately 90 km, not counting the border with Moldova. My friend and I were driving through Kuchurgan, wanted to see a couple historic landmarks, that have violated the rules of crossing the border and did not buy a vignette (road toll Moldova – 5 Euro). On the way back we had to get out to avoid paying a fine. Therefore, it is better and faster to go from Odessa to Moldova through the Palanca to avoid all of the above.
The first stop was Chateau Purcari is one of the most famous and old wineries of Moldova. Wine doing here since 1827. This estate with an Inn, restaurant, vineyard, cellar, and store. The winery offers private and group tours, but it’s true for those who have time.
We came here for a few hours and so hungry, the first thing I went to a restaurant. While we studied the menu, looking for the Moldovan specialities, we were approached by a waitress. The girl was very friendly but could not answer any of my question: that was part of the Moldavian plateau, what types of cheeses you can try, if you order the Board. Further more, she called another waiter, who also could not do anything to explain to us.
Wine in the restaurant was not poured by the glass, you can only buy the small or large bottle. If you take it to a shop to drink wine in a restaurant is impossible, and here the bottle is more expensive. In the end, we decided not to eat in the restaurant and bought wine at the store. The location is captivating only in their appearance, nature and rare wines, in terms of service – a complete failure.
Of the wines I picked up:
• monosort red – Moldovan Rara Neagra de Purcari (375 ml – 75 lei, about 117 UAH.);
• white – a mixture of Moldavian varieties Feteasca Alba and a French Chardonnay – Vinohora (75 lei);
• red – a mixture of the Moldovan Rara Neagra varieties and Argentinean Malbec – Vinohora (75 lei).
The second stop was the winery of Et Cetera. Owns her family – because this place is filled with atmosphere of comfort and tranquility. Wine has been produced here since 2009 and despite the youth of the brand, they are marked local and international awards. The winery has a guest house, bikes, a pool and a restaurant with original cuisine. It also offers tasting tours.
Not eating at Purcari we decided to rectify the situation in the place of the restaurant Et Cetera. The staff here is also not fast as in Purcari, but after several requests we still brought the menu. The list of dishes is small, but it is rather a plus than a minus. We took homemade pate of rabbit “couva-Rouge” (90 lei) platindu with potatoes (50 lei) and cheese plate of local cheeses (200 lei).
The food in the restaurant at a high level. Pate served with bread, which is baked themselves – white with the addition of rosemary and black grape seeds. Moldavian pie also differed from the average Ukrainian – dough in it mm, filling – finely chopped onions with the potatoes, like grandma’s pans. And the cheese plate was not part of the in-store camemberu and DorBlu. It was a local cow and goat cheeses (young and old) with different spices, they are all well combined with the wine.
They serve wine by the glass series of budget Aeroplane (35 lei). We ordered a white – Petrichor Aeroplane (2017) and the red – Carmenere Aeroplane. The first is easy and second, I want to think. The taste of red so much that I bought a bottle home to a local store (200 lei).
From my personal experience, I can say that Et Cetera. It is good to come for the whole day with the family, walk through the vineyards, swim in the pool, drink wine and enjoy life. In Purcari felt tongue-in-cheek pomposity and there’s the warm, homely atmosphere that was felt at the second winery. To call in Purcari, to buy wine, Yes, but eat, drink and to live in Et Cetera.