Customs and traditions related to wine

Every nation has its own "dowry". For the Moldovan people the bunch of grapes people is that "pearl" with a value unfading through the years. That is why the appearance of the National Wine Festival in Moldova has been a very bright and important event. Every year on the second Sunday of October there the most living and generous drink in the world will be praised.

Festivals of "green wine" are held in many wine-producing regions, where winemaking has its own traditions, customs, and history delving into the depths of the centuries. We have things of which one can be proud, such that wine and vineyards and Moldova are indivisible. It is no accident that the shape of Moldova on the map is similar to a bunch of grapes.

There are many legends connected to wine. There is one widely known legend about a white stork with a bunch of grapes in its beak. During the Turkish conquest savage janissaries forced the Grodieshti fortress.

The protectors of the fortress fought courageously, but their reserves of water and food and the warriors’ strength ran short.

Suddenly the strong wind of the wings of many storks forced the enemies to bend down. Hundreds of white storks flew in the sky. They threw bunches of grapes from their beaks to the besieged people.

The warriors were saved from thirst and hunger. Having new strength, they defended the fortress and the Turkish enemies withdrew.

From this time the Moldovan people consider the white-winged stork as a symbol of happiness and well-being. Nowadays the stork with bunch of grapes symbolizes Moldovan wine-making.

In Moldova (especially in the rural parts) it isn’t possible to find a courtyard with no vineyards and where wine isn’t produced. There the secrets of winemaking have come down through the ages.

Special instruments and items for wine production appeared in Moldovain the middle ages: the "crama" – Moldovan winery, the "teask" – wine-making press, and the "bechuri" – wine cellars. Peasants and townsmen stored wine in earth vaults ("bordeys") – overlapping holes, and rich people – in deep cellars with stone arcs.

The grapes were pressed in a special wooden washtub – the "uluk". The technique of winemaking and viticulture, of course, was primitive in these times. The wooden plow with the iron plowshare, the shovel, knives for vine cutting, and wooden washtubs (uluks) where the grapes were pressed by wooden pitchforks and feet.

The pulp was left for several days to ferment and the mash was poured into barrels for further fermentation. In boyar and monastic households wooden presses (teasks) were used to wring out the pulp and cellars for storage.

Up until 1359 when the Moldovan feudal state was formed, wine-making and viticulture were widespread. The ruler Stephen the Great paid special attention to the import of high-quality seedlings and good wine production. To supply the governing court with intoxicating drink, large areas of vineyard were needed and well-adjusted winemaking and cellar facilities. These were provided by a special staff, managed by Paharnik the Great (from the Moldovan "pahar" – a glass)… "He serves the first cup of wine to the prince on holidays and manages the winemaking staff and princely vineyards," – Dmitry Cantemir wrote.

The Moldovan governor liked the invigorating drink. Before each of his 35 battles Stephen the Great drank a glass of wine, which become a talisman for the military leader.

Wine was always generously served up on family and festive tables. If it was necessary to ride somewhere, a wooden vessel, the "burlui", was filled with wine, which vessel was able to keep the drink cool for a long time. The shepherds always took a "ploska" of wine – a vessel placed from the side. The "Ploska" was particularly loved by the haiduks who hid in the oak forests from the Turks. It must be mentioned that precisely this sort of wood became the most precious and favoured material for the barrel-makers.

Ploska

That is why our wine is drunk easily and with joy. The wine from the basement (crama) is more valuable. Every court has a large or small cellar, where wine is stored in barrels at a specific temperature and under other conditions which protect the drink from cold and hot weather. Here there are also a table and a pair of stools or even old stumps to sit down on and taste a glass of perfect wine.

The villager carefully shifts his creation from the barrel to the glass decanter and then to the glass in order to evaluate its color and transparency, and then only afterwards to taste. It must be drunk slowly and unhurriedly to feel the deep sense of the drink. Wine is also good to drink from a painted ceramic mug bought at the market with the bulky decanter – the burlui. Thus the wine-producer could treat his guests and enjoy the praise for the wonderful drink he made.

Moldovan wine is produced mainly in October. That is why this month is called "The Month of the Scoop" ("Luna lui kausi"). The "kaush" is a round wooden vessel with a handle; it is an obligatory item in the peasant’s winery. It serves to scoop up pulp, mash or fermenting green wine. One can taste the green wine, "tulburel", with the kaush.

The following custom dates back to the oldest times in Moldova: when the green wine "tulburel" stopped fermenting, the peasant would stand near the courtyard gates and regale the passers-by with his "tulburel". No one could refuse. According to the tradition, the first taster should take a sip of wine and, without swallowing, silently "listen" to the new wine… Afterward he had to address the winemaker with a wish. The landlord would remember this wish, which would be very significant from this time.

In the olden days (and even now in some places) there was another custom – all the relatives gathered around a miraculous barrel. A cup-bearer was appointed according to his particular merits and respects. He filled the mugs with new wine with the scoop-kaush. On this day everyone who entered the yard was very salutatory, especially if he could sing songs and dance with the company. The merriment would last until late at night, but no one would be tired. It was believed that green wine gives power and energy.

According to Moldovan tradition a kernel of dried walnut is offered as a snack to accompany a glass of wine. This kernel is considered a symbol of warmth and hospitality. During feasts when all the dishes were eaten and the wine drunk the time for departure was approaching. Then it was time for another wide-spread Moldovan custom. The meaning of "La botul calului" was the following: before leaving the guests would drink the last wineglass "near the horse" – that meant that the departing person would take part of hospitable hosts’ warmth and tenderness of feeling along with him on the road.

Moldovan people prepare wine not only for their family and friends. The older citizens of Chisinau remember the autumn time when everywhere from nearest villages a lot of vehicles with domestic wine barrels were coming to the center of capital. Everyone could go there and taste it. The main thing was to say good wishes to the winemaker and to keep strength to achieve the end of wine row.

Finally, the Wine Festival is celebrated by everyone in republic. The goals of the Sarbatoarea Vinului are a returning to their national cradles, the reviving of traditions and the preservation of the continuity of generations. This holiday must unify people regardless of their political views, social status or material status.